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6/15/11

Recipe for Russian Borscht (or at least my version)

When I'll fly to Seattle in September to visit my family, I'm nearly a 100% sure there will be a large pot of borscht in the refrigerator.

What can I say? Growing up in Russia, we ate a lot of beets, and I've always loved them. In salads, soups, or simply roasted, not only do they have a vibrant deep purplish/pinkish color, but they have a natural sweetness to them that pairs so well with many other ingredients.

I've been lucky to grow up in the family where everyone cooks. I know I've mentioned it several times on this blog, but it's not a bad thing to repeat for my new readers. Both my parents, my grandmother and my dad's parents have always been home cooks, and rarely used a cookbook. That's how I cook now too.

But back to borscht. This Russian beet soup, which also typically consists of cabbage, potatoes and carrots, is definitely my dad's specialty. Even my grandma, his mother in law, claims that his version is better than my mom's. Can you get higher praise than that?

My dad's version of borscht varies every time he makes it depending on the season, ingredients available, and what he feels like adding or leaving out. When I got together with my friend Wendy this past weekend, she asked if we could make borscht. I called my dad, asked him to give me a basic run down of the recipe, and we started cooking.

This particular version has carrots, onions, garlic, beets, potatoes, cabbage, tomato paste, sugar, lemon juice, dill and parsley stems and is served with sour cream and dill. My dad also adds celery, red peppers, sometimes zucchini, and root of the parsley plant. You do what you want when you make your soup: feel free to use chicken or beef broth and even include shredded chicken or beef in the final dish.


{According to @katenthekitchen, these are are Chiogga Beets or Candied Stripe Beets. They are gorgeous, but because of the predominance of white color, did not result in the deep purple colored soup I was expecting.}



Ingredients
olive oil
1 cup peeled and cubed beets
1 cup peeled and cubed carrots
2/3 cups chopped onion
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
3 medium potatoes, peeled, quartered {I used the red ones}
1/2 small cabbage, sliced
parsley and dill stems
3 tablespoons tomato paste
sugar to taste
lemon juice
1/2 small beet peeled and shredded
dill
sour cream


Directions

1. In a large pot {I used my 5.5 quart Le Creuset} heat olive oil. Add cubed beets and saute till soft. Add carrots and continue sauteing till they've softened. Add an onion and garlic clove and saute for a few more minutes till aromatic. Remove from the pot.

2. Add enough water to fill 1/2 of the pot. Add cabbage and potatoes and cook till they are almost tender. Add back beets/carrots/onion, parsley & dill stems and bring to a boil.

3. Meanwhile, in a small pot caramelize the tomato paste with a bit of sugar and parsley stems. The parsley stems will add a bit of flavor and can be removed later.

4. Add the tomato paste mixture to the soup and mix. Add in the uncooked shredded beet and let everything simmer for about 10 minutes.

5. Taste the soup. You may add more salt and pepper, sugar, and/or lemon juice. This will take a few attempts at getting the flavor right, but it'll be so worth it. Fish out parsley and dill stems.


6. Serve the soup with sour cream and dill {or you can use mayonnaise and cilantro. My dad is one of the cilantro haters though}.


The soup will only get better after sitting in the refrigerator overnight. It's great hot or cold.

I really hope you will give this recipe a try. Don't be afraid to add some of your own favorite vegetables to the soup. And let me know what you think!

6/13/11

Joe Yonan's recipe for Pistachio Butter Cookies

Earlier last week I came home and found a thick envelope sitting by my door. I impatiently opened the envelop and found a copy of Joe Yonan's Serve Yourself cookbook for my review from Ten Speed press.

I sat on my couch and turned the pages of the book, marveling at the gorgeous photographs by Ed Anderson and trying to figure out what I'd like to cook from it over the weekend with my friend Wendy.

As a side note, let me tell you that I agree with Joe's philosophy on cooking 110%. Just because you live by yourself and don't have the company of a significant other, a parent, a child or a roommate, does not mean that you should not treat yourself to home-cooked meals. Cooking for one is not selfish: it's necessary to take care of yourself, let your creativity flow, and have fun in the kitchen. After all, you are able to cook whatever it is you want without having to listen to the peanut gallery.

After some thought, I decided to bake Pistachio Butter Cookies. Pistachios are some of my favorite nuts, and the ingredient list was straight forward: all I had to buy were pistachios and plastic wrap. I will copy the ingredient list below and summarize the instructions. Wendy and I doubled the recipe. We were cooking for 2 ;)

Pistachio Butter Cookies (page 154)

Ingredients
3/4 cup shelled, roasted, and salted pistachios
1-2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
1 egg yolk, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon baking soda

Directions
1. In a food processor grind 1/2 cup of the pistachios. While the motor is running, pour in 1-2 tablespoons of oil until you have pistachio paste/butter. Scrape the pistachio butter into a bowl.


2. Beat the unsalted butter and brown sugar together in a bowl {either use a hand mixer or a stand mixer} until very smooth. Add in the egg yolk and vanilla. Blend well, scraping the sides of a bowl. Add the pistachio butter and use a hand mixer to maker sure everything is well incorporated.

3. Add in whisked flour and baking soda. {Thank you, Rachel for pointing out I missed this step!}


4. Coarsely chop the remaining 1/4 cups of pistachios and add to the cookie dough.


5. Divide the dough into two. Using plastic wrap, form a 7 inch log from each half of the dough, wrap it tightly, twisting both ends of the plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 30 minutes.

6. Preheat the oven to 350. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut each cookie dough log into 1/2" pieces and place them 2 inches apart on the cookie sheet. Bake for 12-15 minutes. {Joe recommends underbaking the cookies.}


7. Let the cookies cool for a few minutes, then transfer them to a cooling rack.

You can freeze the dough for up to 3 months and then bake the cookies directly from the freezer for 15-20 minutes.



These were incredibly easy to make. They smelled delicious and tasted even better. The only difference I'd make would be to add a pinch of salt to the cookie dough and increase the amount of coarsely chopped pistachios.
Reprinted with permission from Serve Yourself: Nightly Adventures in Cooking for One by Joe Yonan copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.

6/12/11

The things I learned from Jose Andres

This past Friday I attended a talk with Jose Andres at the National Archives for the opening of the America Eats exhibit.

Here's the description of the program:

AMERICA EATS OPENING PROGRAM:  Chef JosĂ© AndrĂ©s
Friday, June 10, at 7 P.M., William G. McGowan Theater
Join us for the inaugural program of "America Eats," a series developed in conjunction with JosĂ© AndrĂ©s, who is Chief Culinary Advisor for the new exhibit "What’s Cooking, Uncle Sam?" This opening program features the James Beard Award–winning chef himself. Chef AndrĂ©s will discuss the history of American food and cooking, science and cooking, and why food is the solution to many of the challenges we face as a nation. A book signing of Made in Spain: Spanish Dishes for the American Kitchen will follow the program; the book is available at a discount from the Archives Shop (202-357-5271) before and during the event.
If you weren't able to attend the program, I thought you'd like to hear a few snippets of information I learned from Jose Andres:

  • There is a tree native to America called paw paw with fruit that incredibly resembles mangoes. {From Wikipedia: The fruit is a large edible berry, 5–16 cm long and 3–7 cm broad, weighing from 20–500 g, with numerous seeds; it is green when unripe, maturing to yellow or brown. It has a flavor somewhat similar to both banana and mango, varying significantly by cultivar, and has more protein than most fruits.}
  • Cows arrived to the United States in 1624, leading to the addition of milk to soups such as clam chowder
  • On the issue of children & healthy eating: just because you provide kids with apples, you are not guaranteed the children will want to eat those apples. What you need to do is teach the kids the history of apples, make them interested in the fruit, and then they would want to eat it
  • 1st printed cookbook in the US was America Cookery by Amelia Simmon in 1796
  • Quick breads is truly an American invention
  • 1st description of macaroni and cheese was  vermicelli prepared like pudding
  • 1541: citrus arrives to the US from Spain {Of course Jose was quite proud of this fact, he's after all from Spain!}
  • This made me laugh: Jose Andres spelled out shrimp to make sure people understood him {because you know, he has an accent. As someone who has an accent, I can quite understand this strategy.} What he did not spell out, however, was ketchup. It took me 5 minutes to figure out he wasn't talking about cat soup.
  • 1805: refrigeration is invented in the US
  • 1809: canning is invented in France as the means to feed Napoleon's troops. This shows how much more advanced the US was!
  • People in Kentucky used to consider Burgoo, a dish prepared with possum, an aristocratic delicacy.
If you've attended this talk, please chime in with the facts you've learned. I can't wait to check out the exhibit and dine at Jose Andres' new America Eats Tavern

6/10/11

Poached Salmon with Spinach, Strawberries & Olives Salad

Some meals I plan, others come together completely randomly. The later happened a few weeks ago. In the morning I decided to defrost a few pieces of salmon I had in the freezer. Once I got home, I stood in front of the refrigerator trying to figure out what to do with the salmon and what to serve alongside the fish.

I decided to poach the salmon and make a salad to go with it. Thus, Poached Salmon with Spinach, Strawberries and Olives Salad.


To poach the salmon, place the salmon in a pan {skin side down} and cover it with water. You can also drop a few whole pepper corns and some herbs if you want. Bring the water to a soft boil, turn the heat down, cover, and simmer till the fish is cooked to your desired done-ness. Although I love raw salmon in sushi, whenever I roast or poach salmon, I like it to be completely cooked through.

Once the salmon was done, it was time to turn my attention to the salad.

I added spinach to a bowl, drizzled it with some olive oil and seasoned with salt and pepper. But that wasn't quite enough.

I found strawberries in my refrigerator and sliced them before adding the berries to the salad. I then opened a jar of green Lindsay Olives I had from the Eat Write Retreat and added those to the salad.

I thought I needed just one more element to make the salad complete and took out a bottle of Mangue Vinaigre I had left over from the shrimp & mango recipe I made for Robyn.


Keep in mind that I took the photographs at about 7:30 pm, but I still think this is a beautiful dinner plate. Not to mention healthy! The salad has both the sweet and salty flavors from strawberries and olives, and is quite filling.


Next time I should probably iron my place mat ;)
Hope you have a wonderful weekend! Any cooking plans? I'll be cooking a few recipes from Joe Yonan's Serve Yourself cookbook and a pasta dish from Domenica Marchetti's The Glorious Pasta of Italy cookbook! Good times.

6/8/11

So you want to be a recipe tester!?

So you want to be a recipe tester? Do you? Do you know what's involved?

I'm sure everyone's experience is different, depending on whose recipes you are testing, whether it is for a magazine or a cookbook, etc, etc.

I'm currently testing recipes for Robyn's next cookbook with about 10 other people. We each test a total of 10 recipes, time how long each one takes, measure out portion sizes, document our thoughts on taste, texture, presentation. We also write head notes, make any suggestions for retesting and edit the step-by-step instructions.

This last weekend, for example, I tested two recipes: one for shrimp & tomato bruschetta and one for lamb chops with slowly cooked onions. I took photographs of each, but unfortunately, my photography skills all of a sudden decided to go on a hiatus.

The bruschetta recipe I tested in the late morning after a night of salsa dancing and had it for breakfast. Luckily, the recipe only needed a small amount of tweaking. The flavors mingled really well together and the whole dish was a breeze to put together. The lamb recipe I tested in the afternoon: just in time for a late lunch. It was fantastic, and I've been adding lamb to my salads for the last few days: if you cook it pretty rare, it's great when cold.

While I wish I could tell you that after years of testing recipes I learned how to cook neatly, clean as I go and take easily read notes, I can't. My kitchen always looks disastrous; sometimes I have a hard time reading my own notes, and I am always left with a large pile of dishes to clean.

On a plus side, in the process of testing recipes, I've acquired quite a collection of spices, grains, mustards and  vinegars. I've also had a chance to try different combinations of ingredients I would have otherwise avoided: and actually got to like some of them!

And because I'm still not comfortable with writing a post without a single photograph, I leave you with a photograph of coconut rice pudding I made for Robyn's blog. It's an incredibly simple combination of milk, coconut milk, sugar, vanilla bean and carnaroli rice.

Good thing my friend Jenn came over soon after I made the rice pudding and I did not have an entire bowl of it sitting and begging me to eat it.


So tell me, have you acted as a recipe tester? How was your experience?

6/6/11

#EWR11: the food

Sigh. Although I did quite a bit of cooking this weekend, including testing recipes for Robyn's next book, all of my photos turned out horrible. Seriously. I ended up deleting them. While I decide if I want to post any of the recaps sans photographs, I'll share with you two meals I had while photographing/attending Eat Write Retreat. {check out my behind the scenes post}

When I learned that we'll be having lunch at McCormick & Schmick's, I was honestly a bit apprehensive. I'm usually not a huge fan of chains, unless you count Chipotle, and in fact have never dined at this restaurant. While all of the attendees participated in Monica Bhide's writing workshop, Robyn and I headed out to McCormick and Schmick's to meet with the chefs, make sure everything was going according to the plan and to enable me to take food photographs near a window and before the place filled up with the conference attendees.



Before I show you what we ate, I must confess: I was blown away by the menu. My preconceived notions were completely erased by inventive combination of local and seasonal ingredients, artful presentations, and yet not having any one of the courses be over the top.

The first course was anchovy and roasted beets with caramelized onion, Tuscarora Mills Farmers Co-Op Spring Greens, Organic Olio Beato Italian OliveOil, and Balsamic Vinegar paired with Mirassou Moscato 2010.

If you want to find out my opinion on anchovies, read this post. If you don't want to read that post, I'll tell you: I'm not a fan of anchovies. They freak me out. Especially the little bones. Oy!

But I thought it'd be rude not to eat them, and after all, I promised the chef and Robyn that I will give these a try.

What can I say...not all anchovies are created equal. These were Garlic Marinated Spanish White Anchovies and they were divine. I ate all three on my plate. They reminded me of marinated herring, which growing up in a Russian Jewish household I ate quite a bit and luckily liked.

Paired with the sweetness of the roasted beets, onions and the sweet chilled wine, the saltiness of the anchovies shone! I could not wait till the next course.




Second course was Wild Alaskan Halibut in miso broth with Spring local mushrooms (Maitake, Enoki, Cimini), baby bok choy, Swiss chard, and tempura of Spring onion paired with Mirassou Pinot Noir from 2009.

Seafood and vegetables. Clean, yet deep flavors that stay with you for a while. This was a beautiful Spring dish, yet it warmed you up.

I would be happy to slurp the broth in this dish daily. And look at the colors! Stunning.




And then there was dessert. Strawberry Rhubarb Shortcake with mascarpone cream and vanilla ice cream paired with Mirassou Riesling from 2009.

I love strawberries.
I love mascarpone cream.
I love Riesling.

Needless to say, I was swooning over this dessert. It's appropriate at a white tablecloth restaurant, but will equally look great at a picnic table!

Thank you the team at McCormick & Schmick's for a wonderful lunch and for changing my preconceived notions!


After this lunch, we had a cooking workshop at Culinaeri. Let's just say I had a hard time concentrating after 3 glasses of wine and so much good food. Still, it was fun learning about different ways to use endives.

And then after a short break, it was time for DC Food Tours to take us on a tour of Capitol Hill. {Check out the tour of Little Ethiopia I was lucky enough to experience last year.}

We started with a history lesson by the Eastern Market Metro and then headed out to try food from 3 different restaurants. For non food photos, go look at my other blog {yes, I have two blogs ;)}.


First on the tour:
Capitol Hill Tandoor & Grill


Menu:
  • 1st course – A bowl of Mulligatawny soup
  • 2nd course - Chicken Jalfraizi including chicken with stir fried fresh garden vegetables finished with a tomato sauce & freshly grounded spices. Served with basmati rice and Naan, which is an unleavened, lightly baked bread in the tandoor.
{thanks to Sharone from DC Food Tours for emailing me the menu descriptions}


I skipped the rice after completely devouring the lentil soup and instead concentrated on the piping hot Naan and incredibly flavorful chicken. Although it was a bit too spicy for my taste, I managed to eat the entire dish. Put food in front of me, and I have a hard time saying no.

After a bit of walking, which was oh so very necessary, and more history lesson, we arrived at our 2nd stop:

Levis Port Café
Menu:   North Carolina BBQ pulled pork  ·    Yams ·     Collard greens  ·    Award winning mac n cheese  ·   Corn bread ·   Sweet Tea

I skipped the sweet potatoes, but was a huge fan of the sweet tea, mac n cheese and BBQ pulled pork. The meal reminded me of my trips to Nashville and Columbia (not the country, the city in South Carolina).




And then there was one more stop!

Las Placitas
Menu:
  • Several plates with Salvadorian specialties ranging Yucas Con Chicharron, Pupusas, Tamale, and Carnitas.
  • House chips and homemade salsa will accompany the Salvadorian plates.
  • Sopapilla for dessert
The salsa was fresh, chunky and I just wish I was hungry enough to eat it. I made an effort though ;)

I also really enjoyed the fried sweet plantains and well seasoned and cooked beef. I seriously need to make a trip to this restaurant soon!

I've never tried a Salvadorean cabbage dish, but it was a great side for the fatty meat, fried plantains and tamales. It reminded me of the pickled cabbage and carrots my parents make.


And of course we sipped on margaritas:


Last, but not least: fried dessert.


I think I just gained 5 pounds while writing this up!

Have you been to any of these restaurants before? What are your thoughts on them?

6/2/11

Mango Honey Flan with Pomegranate Concentrate

People have varied reactions when they hear the name of my blog. Some ask if all the recipes are made with mangoes and tomatoes: no, that would be slightly crazy. Others instantly ignore tomato and refer to my blog as Mango Tango, which would be cool if I was obsessed with tango dancing and not salsa. Yet one person asked me if my blog's name was really naked tomato. Thank you, Russian accent, which will remain with me till I'm 80 years old and even further.

What can I say? I like mangoes and I like tomatoes, and I thought it'd be a relatively short, catchy and easy to remember name. It's been a while, however, that I've cooked with mangoes. Most of the time I just like eating them peeled and cubed. Then last week I saw a recipe for mango honey flan from Ben of What's Cooking Mexico. I was intrigued and a little scared.

I've had flan many times: some versions are better than others. Some restaurants tend to burn the caramel, others have artificial flavors, and then there was the flan that Kenny made for me: perfection.

The recipe Ben posted had an interesting take: instead of making a caramel-like sauce, you simply coat the pan with honey. I must admit I'm not a huge fan of honey unless it's in a marinade, baked into cakes or a part of a salad dressing, but I was willing to give it a try.

Here's what you do {for complete recipe refer back to Ben's post}

Peel and cube a mango. Hopefully yours will be as juicy and sweet as mine!


Get the rest of your ingredients ready: sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, eggs, cream cheese {make sure the cream cheese is at room temperature}, and vanilla {confession: I forgot vanilla when making my flan}.


If you are like me, it's incredibly important to resist the urge to eat the entire can of sweetened condensed milk with a spoon. I repeat: resist!

While the oven is preheating, simply combine all the ingredients in a blender till smooth. Then, heat up your baking dish {I used a rectangular one} and coat it with honey. Pour the flan mixture into the dish, cover with aluminum foil and then set into a larger baking dish filled with water.




Bake for about an hour. Take out of the oven, cool, and then refrigerate over night. Have I mentioned that I have very little patience for things? Then imagine how hard it was for me to wait to unmold and taste the flan.


I decided to add a little Olga touch to the final dish since I rarely follow a recipe to a t. I had a bottle of POM concentrate that POM Wonderful kindly sent to me to test out. So far I've just been adding it to water, but this time I drizzled it over the flan. The concentrate is smooth, silky and has a touch of sour taste to it: a perfect way to offset the sweetness of the flan.


Thoughts on the flan: it was easier to make than I expected. The flavor was really good, but I wasn't a fan of the texture, which reminded me of ricotta; I wanted something perfectly smooth. I'm not sure if there was something I did wrong...perhaps next time I should strain the flan mixture or use mango nectar instead of the actual fruit?
Still, I'm glad I took a chance, faced my fears and tried something new.